Wednesday 30 November 2011

A Piece of Pork

Good morning all.  Today I read the always enjoyable newsletter from Mrs Feather.  She wrote this most interesting article about pork.  In the interests of getting this message across I thought I'd add it to my blog so my modest audience could enjoy this informed opinion as much as I did.

So read on...

It's about factory-farmed pork and the understandable response many have had to the very moving Animals Australia Christmas Radio spots using a young child to voice the perspective of an incarcerated pig. Despite our misgivings about anthropomorphising animals, and this is a particularly emotionally manipulative example, we think it's a powerful piece with an important message - this Christmas, don't buy pork from factory farms.

But there's been a flurry of self-righteous responses in the twittersphere and elsewhere from various influential people who say they're going to boycott ham altogether and implying that, if you are a caring person, you should do the same. We think this is a mistake and missing the point.
Of course, given what we do for a crust we would say that, wouldn't we? Stay with us though, we do have a point to make.

The Animals Australia ad has been very effective in getting everyone talking about factory-farmed pork. However, choosing to express your concern about the welfare of pigs by boycotting pork entirely is a move that might make you feel a bit better about yourself but it doesn't actually have much impact on the system that offends you so much. All it does is limit the growth of an alternative production system to factory farming which means the vast majority who aren't thinking about where their meat comes from have even less choice.

Like it or not, the majority of the global population are carnivorous and show no sign of stopping soon, which is a problem for all of us, from carnivores to vegans, because the environment won't sustain the level of factory farming we're currently engaged in let alone the projected increase in countries like China. So, if you're someone who cares, the most powerful thing you can do is make sure that the meat you do eat comes from sustainable and ethical sources. By doing this, you're supporting an alternative industry of farmers focused on regenerating and improving the land they manage for the period of time they're responsible for it.

(Of course, if you're reading this then we're all in the same echo chamber, but we figure you have to start somewhere. Today this newsletter, tomorrow Masterchef! There's no right or wrong in this whole sustainable food debate, just an imperative to take action as soon as possible, and the point each of us may be on the road to enlightenment is less important than the fact that we're on the flaming road at all.)

We'd suggest that vetoing factory-farmed meat and vegetables and being more demanding about knowing where your food comes from is a much more active way to engage with the issue than just opting out. It's this kind of consumer behaviour that has forced Coles and the peak industry body, Australian Pork Limited, to begin modifying their positions on pork - what they offer, how it's produced and how it's labelled. Clearly they're not doing this out of the goodness of their hearts but as a consequence of clear consumer pressure. It's consumers and business - not the incredibly slow wheel of government legislation - that will force more of these changes.

All it takes is a preparedness to ask questions and an unwillingness to accept glib answers. There are plenty out there willing to prey on consumers' desire to eat ethically and sustainably-produced food. You'll soon see their true colours if you ask these sorts of questions...
- What farm does this particular piece of meat come from?
- What assurances do you have that any claims made about the product are legitimate?
(Bearing in mind that definitions of 'free range' and 'organic' differ depending on the certifying body - there are several with different standards.)
- Did the animal range freely on pastures for the majority of its life?
(Note that organic certification doesn't automatically ensure free ranging on pastures in all product categories, for example poultry.)
- Were the pastures chemical-free?
- Did the stocking densities on this farm allow for the long-term sustainable management of soil and pasture?
- Does this product come from one farm or a group of farms marketing under one brand?
- What did this animal eat?
- Was it routinely fed growth hormones and prophylactic antibiotics?

(Both of these are commonly added to commercially-prepared pig feed unless the producer expressly requests that they're excluded. Even some free range pig farmers may not be aware of this.)

Of course there's the danger you'll end up like the profoundly irritating couple in the spoof of organic tragics who were so concerned about the restaurant meat they were about to eat that they left mid-meal to visit the farm to see for themselves. We're not recommending that approach as we have your emotional as well as nutritional welfare at heart. But it seems the minimum we should expect from the people selling us our food is that they should know where it comes from and how it was produced.

Wednesday 16 November 2011

The Feast's Beasts

I realised that in my last blog I didn’t mention the Feast that was held at the end of the F&B Feast Day.  I was lucky enough to score a free ticket due to my not-so-squeaky-microphoning job up the front so we only had to pay for Himself.

There was duck liver pate and oysters to start (clearly not together, separate like). Goats cheese and asparagus to follow. Two delicious types of fish sashimi style with dill and vinaigrette after, then plates of spit roast lamb and pork to devour and fresh fruit for dessert.

The interesting bit (in terms of whole-of-animal philosophy) is our love of the spit roast.  A whole lamb or pig, or in our case both as we were very lucky and F&B is very generous, is roasted slowly over charcoal until it’s meltingly tender and succulent.  You’re all drooling now right? Well that’s the fascinating thing.  There is no ‘prime’ or ‘secondary’ cut on a spit roast.  It’s all good and all served with gay abandon.  There is no one clamouring for the fillet or the loin, no-one complains when they get a piece of neck.  An interesting phenomenon no?

So what’s so special about a spit roast? Does it magically make all that meat taste the same? Is it all shredded and mixed to a point where there is just a glorious mass of delicious meat? Why are the masses happy to eat this but not buy some neck or shin from the butcher and treat it essentially the same way? Slow cook it, baste it regularly and await a glorious result.

I’d take to the streets to find out why but this is not that kind of blog.  But if you are a prime-meat-eater-no-secondary-cuts-for-me-thanks-Jack think on this yourself and how you can replicate the spit roast with a slow cut to blow your own mind.

Tuesday 15 November 2011

The Feast

I’ve been a bit quiet of late – I just checked, my last blog was August! How time flies...  I have been cooking... I promise; and stuff has been happening but I just moved to a new site, being a contractor in real life, and it’s been a bit full-on.

I attended the F&B Feast Day last Saturday, it was a lark.  Check out the pics on their facebook page here  (let’s see if I can figure out how to insert a hyperlink... ahh there you go!)  Mrs Feather was kind enough to ask me to be the ‘consumer representative’ on one of the discussion panels during the day – finally! My blogging has paid off - some recognition for lame jokes and good cooking.  Himself would say that’s the story of my life but there you go.

I shared the stage with some amazing people and felt quite special to be included.  I didn’t actually mention to Mrs Feather when she asked me that I suffer acute microphone-choke (F&B Junkie + Microphone = Jeremy Freedman, the squeaky voiced teen from The Simpsons).  I’ve been working on it you know; the wee girl and I purchased Sing Star, which we secretly use to rock-star it up when Himself is out of the house.  So I’ve been getting better, but this was my first public microphone appearance.  Luckily the wee girl was in the audience giving me lovely encouraging smiles and I appeared to pull it off without so much as a quaver... phew!

I would have to say my favourite talk of the day was on sustainable commercial fishing in Australia.  What with Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall doing that Fish Fight over in the UK I was wondering if the plight of Australian fishies was the same.  BUT I found out that Australia is No. 2 in the world when it comes to sustainable fishing... (I wonder who no. 1 is? – probably some land locked country in Eastern Europe that ends with a ‘stan’ just because that would be ironic).  I asked about trawling as that is getting a very bad rap and one of the co-presenters assured me that trawling has come a long way, there are various escape mechanisms for animals and fish not meant for the net.  So buy Australian fish! It’s good for you and the environment too!  Apparently the fish of choice for us Sydneysiders is the Mirror Dory (not to be confused with Midori I’m sure – shame) so I’m going to hunter-gather some down, I’ll keep you posted.

Himself is in New York this week (lucky duck) so the wee girl and I are by ourselves... I think there’s a small piece of Dexter fillet in the trusty chest freezer I might brown, put in the oven for a bit, rest and then serve with some crumbed Dexter marrow... yum.

Monday 29 August 2011

Dexter's Ribs (2 Posts in 1 Day! Unheard Of!!)

My knight in shining armour came to the rescue today.  Yesterday, in a fit of foolishness, I did a bit of RAG* engineering with some bricks, an umbrella and an old table.  Needless to say when I went to put it all away a teetering brick fell on my bare foot… The brick broke in 2 and I spent the next 4 hours in A&E checking to see if I broke anything.  Happily no, but crippled I am.
So for 2 nights in a row I’ve been cooked for (unheard of and awesome).  Tonight was a slow cooked Dexter Beef Ribs ragu and papperdelle triumph by himself… And a triumphant triumph it was!
I found the recipe in this month’s Delicious magazine. It was actually meant for pork ribs but I thought it would be fine with beef (fine!? It was awesome!).  I showed himself, he was unsure at first (we’d had veal ribs the week before) so I suggested he go through the magazine and see if anything else tickled his fancy.  His fancy remained un-tickled so he went with the ribs.  Even though the recipe said to cook the ribs for 2 hours I knew better ;-) I suggested to himself that he get started earlier rather than later, then if the ribs needed longer he’d have time up his sleeve.
The recipe was a classic, lots of red wine, garlic, eschalots, herbs and cinnamon.  There was some minor panic about how best to quarter eschalots but once that hurdle was overcome it all moved along quite smoothly.  He reduced the wine in a saucepan and browned the ribs in a large pot.  Then removed ribs and browned the eschalots, garlic, cinnamon quills, oregano and bay.  He added lots of chicken stock, a bottle of passata and the reduced wine.  Then he put the ribs back in to simmer, simmer, simmer.  As suspected, sleeve time was required.  The ribs actually needed about 5 ½ hours to really get to the stage where they were falling apart.
The rib bones were removed, meat shredded and excess fat removed.  Papperdelle was then cooked up to serve with the sauce.
The sauce was super rich so I suggested finely chopped parsley and lemon zest to lift it a bit.  He then served with lots of shaved parmesan.  IT WAS SENSATIONAL.  What a fantastic job, it was delicious.  I could not have done a better job myself.  I can’t wait for lunch tomorrow.
*Rough As Guts

Dexter's Skirt

So it was my BFF’s birthday last Friday so she came around to hang out.  Himself was off at his football grand final (yes, he scored the winning goal) and the wee girl was just hanging out at home.
BFF and I sat there deciding what to do/eat/drink for her birthday.  I had given her a badge to wear saying “It’s My Birthday!” to remind us of our intent then I gave her the options:
  1. Walk down the road and get take away and bring home
  2. Go to a pub/bar to eat, drink and be merry
  3. Go to a BYO restaurant (in the interests of saving money – the wine rack is very full after all)
BFF was very excited, she doesn’t often get a night off from the baby and hubby.  She decided she didn’t feel like going out.  She said she’d been talking to another friend and said she was very exciting about coming around tonight because I was her favourite restaurant in the world… Oh… that’s right…  It suddenly occurred to me there was option 4.
“Oh, or I guess I could cook (insert BFF happy face here), I have some Dexter beef skirt in the fridge – I could make involtini” “what’s involtini?” she asks – OMG you don’t know?  I’m sure there’s some bocconcini and basil in the fridge… no prosciutto though, but we could improvise and rub some smoked paprika on the skirt instead… There’s broccoli, I could make a cheese sauce… by now BFF is looking very excited… and some spicy potato chunks...  BFF proceeds to happy dance around the kitchen.
First things first though, better see what wine we’re drinking…  So we chose two bottles of nice wine and started on the involtini.  Like the veal involtini (see: Hands up who likes Skirts!) I bashed the skirt out thin (to the beat of some bad pop music we were listening to very loud) and then showed BFF how to roll involtini, rubbing each piece of meat with salt, pepper and smoked paprika then rolling up a basil leaf and 2 bocconcini.  Between the two of us they were rolled quickly and ready to cook.  We then chopped up potatoes and sweet potatoes, threw them in a freezer bag with some oil and spice and did a hippy hippy shake dance to coat and put them in the oven to bake (on a baking tray, not in a freezer bag).  Once they were done we quickly browned the involtini ‘til the cheese started to melt, made the cheese sauce, steamed the broccoli etc etc and served. This took about a bottle of wine’s worth of time.
We started second bottle during dinner...  The involtini were sublime, I think making them out of beef really added an extra dimension of flavour missing from the veal (and of course it was Dexter – my favourite).  BFF was very happy with her birthday dinner.  After dinner and extra wine there may have been some lounge room dancing followed by several bad wedding  shows on TV.  All in all, it was an excellent night in…

Sunday 14 August 2011

The Brains of the Outfit

So brains right? Some came in my Flesh Box this week.  I was very excited.  What could be better than 6 bio-dynamic fresh lambs brains... Apparently, as far as my family are concerned a lot...

Upon thinking about how to serve these treats I turned to my Mum as Dad is a big fan.  "Mum, how do you do brains for Dad?" She explained she first poached them and then crumbed and shallow fried them so I thought I'd give that a go.
 
First I soaked them in salty water (I covered the bowl with tin foil so himself did not stumble across them in the sink).  I did show the wee girl, she was very excited to try them.

I then wrapped them up in little tinfoil bonbons (advice from Maggie Beer) and poached in water with bay, peppercorns and a dash of vinegar.  Took them out and left them in their little wrappers and put in the fridge for a while to firm up.  Then I crumbed in panko crumbs and shallow fried until golden.  They ended up looking like lovely little croquets.

So I served four of these morsels on a plate each with tomato and HP sauces on the table.  Before himself tried any I warned him it was brains.  OHMIGOD the revolt.  He would not try any, point blank.  Said he'd tried them (black market brains no less) in the UK in a curry and hated the texture then and WOULD NOT eat them now and sat there sulking.

The wee girl was more game but the first mouthful produced some fairly spectacular results.  Apparently the texture was a bit much for her... She heaved, her eyes watered and she finally, valiently swallowed.  I asked her if it was the flavour? No, she assured me, not the flavour but the very, very funky texture. She managed to finish the first one with only a bit more retching then moved onto the second one.  This one, like the first produced enough spectacular heaving and eye watering that she gave it up.  I was so impressed with her though, she tried so hard to like them!

I have to say - I quite enjoyed them :-) The texture WAS funky, but kinda cool too... I didn't manage to finish all four pieces but found the whole experience (including the family antics) very enjoyable indeed...

:-)

Oh, and I made butter too, today.  Realised there was none in the fridge but there was cream; and I couldn't be bothered going down the road just before breakfast.  So I added a bit of salt and wizzed with a wizzer until after a while it turned quiet yellow and looked separated.  I then put the whole lot in muslin and squeezed all the whey out and voila! butter.  The wee girl was very impressed with this magic and demanded all our butter from now on be hand made... I think not.

Tuesday 9 August 2011

Stick Your Neck Out...


So one of the items in my last Flesh Box was a piece of pork neck (1.6kg) with a lovely strip of skin along one side... (Crackling here I come!)  So, what does one do with pork neck anyway? Happily the internet answered that question.  Slow roast pork neck apparently.  So I browsed around until I found one that floated my boat from a South African blog and then put a me slant on it. 

Remember my veal neck experience? Surely this should be just as good but with crackling as a side bonus!  So here we go:

Pork neck gets browned at a high heat after being rubbed with seeded mustard and olive oil (salt of course.  I also pierced the strip of skin over and over with my knife (very violent and zen at the same time) and rubbed with more salt – huzzah for salt!

After 45 minutes I added leeks, sweet potato, eschallots, garlic, sage and thyme which I had browned in some olive oil in the wok.  Pulled the pork out, put all the veg in the pan and pork back on top, making sure I kept the skin free of any fat or stock.  I then poured wine and stock over the veg and back into the oven at 150 degrees Celsius.  At the same time I had melted some dripping I had in the fridge and thrown some potatoes in there to cook.

Cooked for 2 hours until the pork was lusciously soft then removed the meat, cut off the skin/fat and browned that under the grill whilst resting the pork.  Cranked the oven back up to finish off the potatoes and then made a gravy with the stock/wine left in the bottom of the pan after removing the veg (of course – duh!)

I served the pork in thick slices, with veg, potatoes and a piece of yum crackling each.

The fam told me this was the best pork roast they had ever eaten, moist and unctuous; far superior to a pork rib roast apparently - Delish!

Wednesday 13 July 2011

A Note on Cold Remedies...

I know, hardly slow cooking is it? But I have been struck down with a lurgy and wanted to share with you all a drink my mum used to make for me (she got it from some natural remedy place) which I now make for myself that I think really does help.  You still get said cold but it doesn’t seem to last so long and perhaps the symptoms not so severe.  When she used to make it all but the garlic were ground spices but I have upped the ante with fresh ingredients with the exception of the turmeric, which you could also get fresh if your green grocer stocks turmeric root.  The turmeric is my addition to the recipe.  An Indian lady once told me they give honey mixed with turmeric for sore throats; apparently it has anti-bacterial properties...  I know people often think of turmeric as something that just gives colour but it has a lovely musky flavour.  I always grate the garlic and ginger as it makes for easier drinking (less sharp corners!)
So here it goes:
1 garlic clove grated
Fresh ginger (about an equal quantity to the garlic) grated
1 small red chilli seeds removed diced very, very finely
½ tsp ground turmeric
1 large tsp honey
Juice and zest of 1 large juicy lemon

Put all ingredients in a glass or mug.  Top up with hot water from the tap (do not use boiling water as you’ll destroy the vitamin C in the lemon).  Due to the turmeric it should turn an excitingly lurid yellow.  Drink it all down including the chunky bits.  I find this is easier if you give it a stir before each swallow so you’re not left with lots at the bottom you have to try and eat neat as it were.
You get used to the taste eventually J

Thursday 7 July 2011

Flesh Box

So I finally got my Box o’ Flesh from F&B, so very exciting.  I’d asked for a box of goodies to cook up a storm with.  When I’d contacted them I asked if they thought that a box of meat they had left after all the orders were in was a good idea, in the interests of not letting anything go to waste.  Plus, I find that it’s easier to cook around what I have instead of thinking of what I need up front (call me a lazy shopper).  So I picked up my box which was full of lots of lovely surprises...
The first thing that caught my eye was packets of oxtail. I LOVE slow cooked oxtail and it was the first thing I used.  I decided to do an oxtail pie.  The plan was to have it on Saturday night for dinner.  I started cooking the tail at about midday, thinking that would be plenty of time for the meat to start falling off the bone, threw it in a pot with the usual suspects and covered it in one of those paper jobbies, lid on top then in the oven down low.
When I pulled it out at 6pm alas! The meat was not cooked enough (do’h!) So I put it back in the oven to think about itself for a while longer and then wondered what I was going to feed the family for dinner... Dug around the freezer and pulled out some sausages so quickly knocked up a sausage and bean casserole. Not as nice as the sausage and bean casserole I usually make using the F&B toulouse sausages (they are divine) but still good, disaster averted.
When I was about to go to bed I turned off the oven and put the oxtail in the fridge.  In the morning it had a nice layer of fat on top which I took off and saved for when I needed dripping later (dripping makes amazing Yorkshire puddings).  The meat was removed from the bone and then put aside.  The only thing I don’t like about oxtail is those weird little hard caps on the end of each joint... what are they anyway???
I made some pastry in the afternoon and then baked up the pie.  It was sensational!  Although I think the wee girl was more impressed with the pastry leaves I put on top of the pie for garnish than anything else...
Off topic, did I mention that I freeze my left-overs in portion sizes? That way a quick meal can be had simply by adding toast or mash or pasta or whatever...  So I thought the other day I would use one for lunch the next day.  Pulled out some spaghetti bolognaise mince and cooked up some spaghetti while I was waiting for the mince to thaw.  Put the pasta in my lunch container and poured the mince over only to find out it was chilli con carne. For the record, chilli con spaghetti does not work.

Friday 24 June 2011

A Month of Lovely Lamb

I took delivery of my whole lamb from F&B a wee while ago and set about thinking of wondrous thinks to cook with it.  My only (small) disappointment was that both shoulders appeared to be minced or diced so no slow cooked shoulder for me.  Boo... Everything else was divine.  The most amazing thing of all though it that this particular lamb appeared to have 4 shanks instead of 2... Weird lamb but I’m not complaining...
So I started with Moussaka – since I had an abundance of mince I decided this would be a wise course of action.  I haven’t actually cooked it before so cruised the interweb looking for some recipes to inspire me.  I decided that I wanted to spice it up and not add too much tomato so it didn’t just taste like lasagne with eggplant.
I made a white sauce as opposed to a cheese sauce, and added lots of nutmeg for flavour.  Then for the mince I really ramped up the herbs and spices; browned some onion then the mince.  Then I added clove, nutmeg, garlic, chilli, oregano, cinnamon; basically anything I could think of to give it a Grecian spicy edge, I added a bit of tomato, but not too much.
Fried off the eggplant then layer, layer, layer...  Success! The mince was superbly spicy and the whole not too rich.  My wee girl is not a huge fan of eggplant (textural thing) but she also wolfed it down.  My BFF dropped around for a walk and ended up walking out with lunch for the next day – what a friend I am...
I also went with a Lamb Slow Cooker dish jobbie. Diced Lamb, Port & Cranberry surprise cooked by Henri.  Henri is our slow cooker, I fill him up in the morning and at the end of the day he produces mouth watering dishes for us.  This is another super easy dish.  Brown Lamb, add stock, port, cranberries, cranberry sauce... simmer for 8 hours, serve with mash. Yum.
Oh yes! And Lamb Saag! Ah, lamb! You are so versatile!! Again with the interweb’s help I cooked up another gem in Henri.  Diced Lamb, spices, spinach... I think though, I added too much water as I was worried Henri would dry out during the day, so it was not as thick as it could have been but was delicious still, I served with roti romali – my new favourite Indian bread.  I was worried that just lamb and flat bread might be a bit much so I also knocked up Aloo Matar which was easy and sensational...

Thursday 23 June 2011

An Assortment of Things

Hmm I’ve been quite quiet for a while I know, but what with my massive following I’m sure it’s fine.  Apparently no comments can be posted either, which is a bit weird so sorry if you’ve tried to take me down a peg or two, or dispute my love of secondary cuts.  I’ll get back on that.
I have done a few delicious things in the last few weeks; there was the 3 course meal entirely from the pantry/fridge/freezer (no shopping allowed) when my family left me on my own one Saturday night... that consisted of a caramelised onion tarte tartin (sensational) I didn’t have any pastry in the freezer so used a lacha paratha that was in there instead.  As this is an Indian version of puff pastry it worked a treat.  Main was a chicken schnitzel I found in the freezer, broccoli gratin and champ.  This went not quite as well, somehow I managed to over salt the champ and the sauce I cooked was a bit weird – I should have stuck to the pepper sauce Gravox mix...  I fear though I was a bit fussy because I was still quite full from the starter. 
Dessert was a bit of a triumph, I made a boozy prune and chocolate tart.  I bashed up some chocolate ripple bikkies, added melted butter and put that in a tart case.  I soaked the prunes in port, mixed with melted chocolate and cream, added an egg yolk and then baked for a while.  It was delicious but I was so full I only had a bit; which was good because it improved over the next few days anyway...
So that was that.
I did end up getting a whole lamb from the lovely people at Feather and Bone, all chopped up and ready for the chest freezer, I’ll leave what I did with all of that for another post or this one will be way too long; instead, I’ll focus on a pet peeve of mine, beef brisket being sold as ‘roasting beef’.  Why? It’s tough when cooked medium/medium rare and dry when well done... So I had one and decided to do a Guinness pot roast with it instead.   Success! It was gorgeous and the gravy sensational.  We had it with a bit of Hot English Mustard on the side which made it sing.  The recipe was an old one from a ‘One Pot Meals’ cookbook I had. Essentially, brown veg, pour over Guinness and beef stock, plonk in browned meat and cook for an age.  Yum.  So don’t roast your brisket! Pot roast instead.

Friday 29 April 2011

Hands up who likes Skirts!

I had some organic (probably even biodynamic) veal skirt in the trusty chest freezer (I’ve told you how much I love my chest freezer haven’t I?)  I’m not sure why I ordered it, not being familiar with cooking skirt, but I did; rolled up in neat little sausages.  The veal is raised with its mother, happy and free and weaned when least stress will be caused to both cow and calf... happy veal = guilt free veal... So I decided to try making veal involtini with it.
There were 2 strips in the packet which I quartered and then got all medieval on them by bashing them out with a meat mallet until they were thin and dimpled. They began to look suspiciously like what you buy at the butcher as a veal scaloppini for premium prices...
I lay across a piece of prosciutto, some basil from the garden, bocconcini and lots of pepper and salt, rolled them up and secured with a toothpick.  Then I seared them on a high heat quickly so they didn’t toughen up.  I don’t think I should have worried; they were mouth-wateringly tender and oozing with the cheese, yum.
I served with a salad of charred radicchio, pine nut, garlic & sour cherry balsamic vinegar dressing and some polenta chips with gorgonzola dipping sauce... true, it took me over an hour but better than sitting on my duff in front of the TV and it was all very delicious.
I have a sneaking suspicion that the Italians have probably been using veal skirt for this kind of thing all along and the tender thin cuts you buy at the butcher are a bit of a con (or at least skirt they have bashed out for you)...

Monday 18 April 2011

Luscious Lamb

So lamb shanks – what’s the go there? Are they still considered a secondary cut?  I remember 10 years ago when I’d buy them as a cheap roast option for my wee girl and I - $2 each! And now? Now they’re the in thing, all these damn cooking shows showing the masses how to slow cook them to perfection and they’ve doubled in price.  And you only get 2 per lamb, who was the idiot who opened their big mouth and let the secret out?  It reminds me of selling shin for twice the price by calling it osso bucco... Of course the lamb shanks at feather and bone are of the superior sort, tiny and sweet so I got some...
Luckily I have a sensational slow cook recipe for them:
4 lamb shanks, frenched
1 carrot
1 stalk celery
1 leek (white part only)
1 onion
½ bulb garlic
2 star anise whole
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig rosemary
1 bay leaf
Wine
Very dark chicken stock

It’s very easy... Brown the shanks in a splash of olive oil, remove. Brown the roughly chopped vegies, spice and herbs, pour in some wine and reduce. Add back shanks and pour over stock to cover. Simmer 3 hours. Remove shanks (carefully or the meat will just flop off the bone) and strain sauce.  Reduce sauce on a fierce heat until it tastes about right then thicken with cornflour and water.  Serve with champ...
What is champ you say? Well, it’s the Northern Irish brand of mash with lots of butter, cream, salt and chopped shallots (the green long type, not the pink oniony type) stirred through – not for the dieters but food porn for everyone else.
These shanks are sensational – try it and prepare to weep in gratitude.  You know; I don’t really consider shanks a secondary cut either but thought I should throw it in anyway due to its inherent awesomeness...

Wednesday 6 April 2011

Marvellous Marrow

So a bit about bone marrow... To be honest, even though I’m all for the ‘nose-to-tail’ eating theory, offal challenges me.  I want to like it, really I do but I still struggle. My wee girl likes marrow, she even has a marrow fork for extracting marrow from long thin places.  It grosses all my friends out and is a great party trick.
So at a dinner party recently I attempted Jason Atherton’s Dexter Beef 3 ways from the Great British Menu.  It was a huge hit. Dexter cheek, slow cooked; Dexter fillet served medium rare and a marrow crumble.  The marrow crumble was made with breadcrumbs, marrow, garlic and the like fried in olive oil.  I ordered the marrow along with my usual goodies from F&B and set about getting the stuff out of the bone.  I was hoping it would just slide on out as Grant said it would, but my first attempt was with a spoon, scooping it into a bowl of water.  It left me with what looked like blood porridge... gross. But I persevered, cooked it up and what do you know? It was sensational!! Did I mention the smoked potato puree on the side? That was awesome too .
I now have a bag of bones in my trusty chest freezer, all cut into handy 3 inch pieces. It cost me less than $5.
So on to my experiments. So far there have been two.  One piece I thawed and then pushed the marrow out of the bone (worked better this time, came out like a wee sausage) which I then sliced into rounds, crumbed, shallow fried  and served it on Dexter eye fillet (one of our rare prime cut nights).
As an aside, can I tell you how much more we enjoy prime cuts now they are the exception rather than the rule?
The second piece I used whilst making a stew.  I had a high tea to go to so I needed something I could throw in the oven that would be ready for when I got home in the evening – bless the slow cooked meal!  Chuck steak (probably the Dexter I keep banging on about) onions, garlic, red wine, star anise, porcini mushrooms and I threw in a marrow bone.  I’m sure there was some other stuff in there, just can’t remember now... the usual stew suspects. 
I put it in the oven low and slow and went off to enjoy an arvo with the girls.  When I came home and pulled it out of the oven there was a small panicking moment where I thought it had boiled dry but not so... I topped it up with water, pushed the marrow out and stirred it through.  OHMIGOD probably the best stew I have ever made... ever.  Really.  Ever.
It was actually a warm evening not truly suited to stew but I was unrepentant and plan to repeat this particular project many times over winter when the slow cooker comes out...
Get some marrow bones – they rock.

Monday 4 April 2011

Sensational Sweet & Sour...

So I dug some gorgeous free range pork fillet out of the chest freezer (it was a prime cut night)... Decided to do an old school Sweet and Sour Pork...

Got this recipe out of a 20 year old cookbook of mine - Australian Brand Name Cookbook - recipe by Golden Circle (unbelievable but true)

500g free range pork fillet (they didn't say that, but I reckon it made the dish)
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp dry sherry (I used sweet!)
1.5 tbsp plain flour
3 tsp corn flour
water
sufficient oil to fry

Sauce
1 red capsicum
1 green capsicum
1 stalk celery
1 onion
2 tbsp oil
2 tbsp soy
1/2 tsp finely chopped fresh ginger
2 tbsp  brown sugar
1 tbsp brown malt vinegar
2 tbsp tomato sauce
450g can pineapple pieces
2 tsp cornflour blended with 1/2 cup pineapple liquid

Cut veges into 1.5 cm squares, heat oil and fry until softening.
mix together soy, ginger, sugar, vinegar, tomato sauce and add to veges, stir through pineapple pieces and the pineapple juice and cornflour. heat until thickened
keep warm
dice pork and toss well in soy sauce, sherry, flour and cornflour (I added a bit more water to make it slightly less thick)
fry in hot oil until golden and crisp (I was cooking prawn crackers in the oil, that's how I knew it was hot enough and then we got the prawn crackers too - yum)
re-heat sauce and stir through pork
serve with rice...

The boy was weeping with gratitude from this dish... then accused me of holding out on him... "we've been living together for 6 years and it's the first time I've had this????"

I reckon it was the pork that made it that sensational - try it free range people!

Who Knew?

Monday, 4th April 2011
We'll start with veal neck...

Here is the recipe provided by F&B:

This recipe for slow-roasted veal neck or shoulder. Mix up fresh rosemary, garlic, anchovies, salt, pepper and olive oil and marinate a 2 kg piece of Geebung organic or Tillabudgery biodynamic angus veal neck overnight in a covered dish. Cook slowly in the oven - covered - on 80c for about five or six hours then whack it in a hot bbq for 10 minutes. Rest for 30 minutes and prepare to ascend to heaven.

So I had a lunch to go to yesterday, Persian theme (due to it being Persian new year). So instead of the anchovies and rosemary I googled a spice rub from Bahrain (close enough!) and rubbed into the veal neck...

Bizar a' Shuwa spice rub
1 tblsp cardamom seeds ground
1 tblsp cumin seeds ground
1 tblsp coriander seeds ground
2 tsp chilli powder
1/2 tsp turmeric
2 cloves garlic crushed
3 tblsp vinegar
salt

mix together and rub over veal!  I then followed the cooking instructions provided by F&B (added a small glass of water when roasting)  it was AWESOME!! reduced the juices (after skimming the fat) with dried figs and apricots and served that as a sauce... everyone loved it and I was pretty chuffed considering it was a cut most people would turn their noses up at!  I will definitely be getting one again for next bbq I go to!

I have just ordered half a lamb for the chest freezer - I'll keep you posted on the experiments therein... I have this rolled lamb breast recipe from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall I've been meaning to try...